Why Puerto Rico is the Caribbean's new affordable hotspot.!!
- Puerto Rico is home to one of the world's only bio-luminescent bays
- Nearby stunning islands of Vieques and Culebra are a haven from crowds
- Norwegian has introduced one-way tickets to Puerto Rico for just £159
Famed
for its tropical islands and world-class beaches, the Caribbean has
long been a playground for the rich and famous and a destination I've
always considered way out of my league.
But
sipping a piña colada under a palm tree on the most idyllic stretch of
sand I've ever set my eyes upon after an evening exploring the brightest
bioluminescent bay in existence, I can't quite believe my luck.
The Caribbean is becoming more accessible and affordable for people like myself thanks to new flights to the region.
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Sun Bay - one of the beautiful beaches on the island of Vieques, which is only 21 miles long and four miles wide
Vieques sleepy sister island of
Culebra. Silky ribbons of sand line the low-key island which is home to
the famous Playa Flamenco - generally known as the Caribbean's best
beach
Norwegian
began flying direct to Puerto Rico - 'the Island of Enchantment' - last
November, enabling Brits to travel direct from London to the Caribbean
for an affordable escape.
Long
overlooked by British tourists for other hotspots such as Cuba and the
Dominican Republic, Puerto Rico wasn't the first destination that sprung
to mind when dreaming of holidays in the Caribbean. But the country is a
treasure trove of unexplored beaches, crystal-clear waters, idyllic
islands, exclusive hotels, and world-class water sports.
The
pastel-hued capital San Juan is the perfect combination of old and new -
a city of immense culture with an eclectic mix of restaurants, vibrant
bars throbbing with tropical sounds and endless impeccable beaches where
a rum cocktail is never too far away.
The
48 hours I spent in the city enabled me to explore the colourful,
cobbled streets of Old San Juan, experience the city's rich cultural
heritage and stay in one it's most famous hotels.
The view from Condado Vanderbilts infinity pool which looks onto the crashing seas of the North Atlantic
The colourful streets light up Old San Juan - the oldest settlement in Puerto Rico
Old
San Juan - the oldest settlement in Puerto Rico - is a city of colour
and culture. The walled district has a distinct Spanish feel to it,
enhanced by its own tropical Caribbean charm, where colonial
architecture is awash with a vibrant palette.
San Juan is a haven for luxurious, five star hotels that boast impeccable views, idyllic beaches and flawless service.
Condado
Vanderbilt Hotel - a common hangout for the rich and famous - is among
the capital's finest hotels and once known as the social epicentre of
San Juan.
Built
in 1919 and refurbished in 2008, it is situated only a 10-minute taxi
ride away from Old San Juan, making it the perfect setting for a
cultured retreat.
Beyond
the indisputable appeal of San Juan, the west coast remains pristine
and unembellished and boasts endless opportunities for water-sports.
Referenced
in the Beach Boys classic song 'Surfin' Safari', the small fishing
village of Rincon on the western-most tip of Puerto Rico has become a
surfing mecca. The word of Rincon's world-class surf breaks got out
after the 1968 World Surfing Championship, leading surf bums from across
the world to flock to the village. It's easy to know when you've
reached Rincon - colourful concrete houses dot the hills, food stalls
selling cheap pina coladas and pinchos - a Puerto Rican fast food staple
- line the streets and surfboard-packed cars dominate the roads.
But
unlike other surfing destinations such as Hawaii's Waikiki or France's
Biarritz which have become over-commercialised, the town has kept its
authenticity and flavour.
Condado Vanderbilt’s Tower Ocean View King - the hotel is a common hangout for the rich and famous
Playa Maria - one of Rincon’s famous
surf beaches - also has a collection of beautiful coral reefs teeming
with turtles and tropical fish
Rincon
is home to a number of boutique hotels and small-scale B&Bs. I
opted for the English Rose B&B which is set in the mountains and
offers clean suites with sweeping views and the best breakfast in town.
The
town is also known for its sunsets. Visitors and locals gather at the
picturesque Lighthouse in the evening to drink Medalla - the island’s
beer - and spot migrating whales bound for cooler waters while watching
surfers take advantage of the last light of the day. The daily ritual
perfectly reflects the town’s two nicknames - Pueblo del surfing (the
surfing town) and El Pueblo de lose Bellos Atardeceres (the town of
beautiful sunsets).
Surfing
isn't the only water sport that Rincon has to offer - it also has a
collection of beautiful coral reefs teeming with turtles and tropical
fish.
One of the many secluded islands visible on the flights between the mainland and Culebra and Vieques
For world class beaches, the islands of Vieques and Culebra are a must.
Small
airline companies allow travelling between the mainland and small
islands easy. During the eight minute flight to Vieques, I was joined
only by two commuting locals who remained unperturbed when rain began
dripping through the windows and the pilot battled to land the plane in
gusty winds.
As
well as a handy and cheap mode of transport, the no-fuss flights (which
require no boarding pass and call out names five minutes before
takeoff) provide the opportunity to enjoy the incredible scenery from
above - from deserted tiny islands to expansive coral reefs.
Within minutes of landing on Vieques, I could sense a very different culture and a feeling of the real Puerto Rico.
Walking
a couple of seconds beyond the two tiny tourist strips I stumbled upon
locals sitting outside their jumbled colourful houses playing cards
while listening to loud music or smartly-dressed children purchasing ice
creams after a day at school.
Horses are as much an integral part of the island as the sand and sea and for many, the main mode of transport on the island.
While
introducing me to Malecon House - the beautiful seafront boutique hotel
I was staying at - manager Giancarlo told me 'we try to keep the gate
closed as horses tend to come onto the property - and he was right.
Within minutes of unpacking my bags and taking a seat beside the
gorgeous pool, two small horses managed to sneak through to enjoy the
lush tropical garden.
Situated
in the charming village of Esperanza just minutes away from some of the
island’s best beaches, bars and restaurants, Malecon House offers 13
stylish bedrooms all of which are uniquely decorated with high-end
furnishings.
Sunset in Esperanza, Vieques, which is home to some of the island’s best beaches, bars and restaurants
The pool set in the tropical gardens
at Malecon House - which offers 13 stylish bedrooms all of which are
uniquely decorated with high-end furnishings
The
staff at Malecon House are friendly just like all the Puerto Ricans I
encounter. Everyone in the country seems to wear a smile, from the
airport's security officer to the bathroom assistant, the hospitality
and attitude is second to none.
Although
the island is only 21 miles long and four miles wide and has no traffic
lights, Vieques is a driver's island - a Jeep or a golf cart (of a
horse) is a must to visit some of the 40 incredible - but very remote -
beaches on offer.
While
exploring the island's National Wildlife Refuge, it's not unusual to
stumble upon a powdery stretch of white sand where you can spend the day
lazing in heaven joined only by the company of shallow-swimming fish
and the occasional iguana.
The
island is also home to one of nature's most breathtaking spectacles -
the glowing of a bioluminescent bay. The millions of tiny star-like
bioluminescent phytoplankton emit light and scintillate like a starry
sky when stressed - be it by the lapping of waves, the carving action of
a paddle or the movement of a fish.
Sat
upon a clear-bottom kayak, my guide Carlos enthusiastically led us into
the lagoon for the otherworldly evening where lit-up sharks and giant
tarpon darted below us chasing fish and the luminous organisms.
Picturesque Flamenco Beach on Culebra is generally known for being one of the Caribbean’s best beaches
Bioluminescent Bay in Vieques was officially declared the brightest recorded in the world by Guinness Book of World Records
Vieques
sleepy sister island of Culebra is a beautiful eight minute flight
away. Silky ribbons of sand line the low-key island which is home to the
famous Playa Flamenco - generally known as the Caribbean's best beach.
The
island is free from resort-style hotels, supermarket chains, nightlife
and rush-hour traffic - offering untouched natural beauty and culture
which is a million metaphorical miles from the bright lights and buzz of
San Juan.
The
picture perfect beach of Playa Flamenco is a curving mile of white sand
and turquoise water which consistently makes it onto lists of the
world’s best beaches - and rightly so.
Cuartel de Vallaja is a military barracks built between 1854 and 1864. It is located in Old San Juan, Puerto Rico
A lifeguard hut on a blustery day at Playa Flamenco
But
the island is home to a number of other beautiful beaches. The secluded
beach of Playa Zoni is free from the crowds often found on Flamenco and
boasts similarly turquoise waters with stunning views of tiny islands.
As
the island's only boutique hotel, Club Seabourne's delightful blue
bungalows are distinctive and climb the hillside in the south of the
island. Boasting a tropical garden with hammocks and outdoor pool the
hotel is a perfect place to unwind. Rooms come complete with luxurious
four-poster beds and private balconies with stunning views.
Though
even smaller than Vieques, transport is required to get the most out of
the island. The golf cart I opted for proved a fun way to get around
and led me to transport numerous visitors who hopped on the back as I
explored the island, including an American couple who needed to register
the catamaran they had just docked at the harbour.
As
I gulped litres of water after soaking up a bit too much sun on my
final day, I realised the man sitting opposite me joking with the
airport security as he drank his coffee was my pilot.
Following
yet another nail-biting take-off, my fellow-passengers - all locals -
carried on with their day's work as I took in the most breathtaking
scenery I had ever witnessed.